Fragrance has been with humanity for over 4,000 years, capturing the imagination of cultures worldwide and punctuating the everyday with moments of joy. Fragrance originated in the ancient Ottoman Empire before moving west to Ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome. The variety of scents increased as the Arabs expanded their trade routes west. The beginning of modern-day perfumery commenced during the Renaissance in Italy, particularly in Florence, championed by the influential Medici family. France eventually became the epicenter of scent, with Grasse in the South of France providing idyllic growing conditions for important perfume ingredients such as roses and jasmine.
Perfume was traditionally associated with rituals, medicinal rites, and ceremonies, intertwined with burials, celebrations, embalming, bathing, and social events. Incense was burned regularly to elevate consciousness and heighten spiritual connection. Frankincense and myrrh from modern-day Somalia were cherished ingredients for ceremonies in Ancient Egypt.
Enfleurage, a technique practiced since ancient Egypt, involved the extraction of essential oils from flowers and plants using fats. Headspace technology, developed in the 1970s, allowed scientists to capture the scent of a living plant and mimic it synthetically. Giving further scope and play to a perfumers 'paintbox' of scents. As precious, hard to source natural ingredients were now available as synthetic compounds.
By the Middle Ages, distillation techniques had improved significantly, and trade routes broadened, increasing the availability of ingredients and variety of scents. Perfume became a luxury item, with Florence being the epicenter of this creativity during the Renaissance. The distillation process using alcohol was perfected around 1320.
Strong scents were worn by individuals to mask odors caused by the lack of bathing during the 17th and 18th centuries. Alcohol was incorporated into the creation of fragrance, extending its longevity and ensuring the stability of the scent.
The 19th century heralded the arrival of synthetic fragrances, including aldehydic compounds, and the creation of the world’s most iconic scents. By the 20th century, fragrance was available to the masses and became a popular gift and token of affection.
Today, Floris is one of the last family-owned luxury fragrance houses in the world. Founded in 1730 by Juan Floris in London's St. James’s quarter, the business initially created combs and brushes for London’s elite before moving into perfumery, toilette waters, and other aromatics. Floris has created perfumes for the British Royal Family and other dignitaries, a service still offered today at 89 Jermyn Street, where clients can create a truly bespoke fragrance.
Previous clients of Floris include members of the British monarchy, prime ministers, actors, and writers. Sir Winston Churchill, Marilyn Monroe, Oscar Wilde, and Ian Fleming, the author of the James Bond series, are just a few of the notable characters who have graced 89 Jermyn Street.
