Fragrance is an art form that transcends time, connecting us to memories, emotions, and even aspirations. As a science, the perfumer must select and then blend their ingredients. They can choose from thousands of synthetic molecules (or scents) and many natural materials. They must use these to generate a formula that behaves as they wish it to when it meets your skin.

The top, heart (middle) and base notes of a perfume are what determines the smell as you wear it. They are the perfect illustration of both the science and the art of perfumery.

At Floris London, crafting exquisite fragrances since 1730 has been our passion, blending tradition with innovation to create scents that resonate. One such masterpiece is our iconic No. 89, a fragrance that beautifully exemplifies the delicate interplay of top, heart, and base notes. But what do these terms mean, and how do they shape the way a fragrance develops? Let’s delve deeper.

When you experience a fragrance, it unfolds in layers. These layers are often described as notes, and they play distinct roles in how the scent evolves over time.

1. Top Notes:
   These are the first impressions of a fragrance, bright and fleeting, often lasting just a few minutes to an hour. They introduce the scent and are typically composed of lighter, more volatile ingredients.
2. Heart (or Middle) Notes:
   Once the top notes evaporate, the heart notes take center stage. These are the “soul” of the fragrance, adding depth and character while bridging the freshness of the top notes with the richness of the base. Heart notes can linger for several hours.
3. Base Notes:
   These are the foundation of the fragrance, the lingering essence that remains long after the top and heart notes have faded. Base notes provide depth and longevity, often revealing themselves hours into the wear of the scent.

Let’s explore the notes of No. 89 and how they unfold on your skin.

Top Notes

Bergamot, Lavender, Neroli, Nutmeg, Orange, Petitgrain
The journey begins with a zesty burst of bergamot and orange, softened by the herbal elegance of lavender. The citrus brightness is enhanced by the bittersweet, green tones of petitgrain and the subtle warmth of nutmeg, while neroli adds a touch of floral sophistication.

Heart Notes

Geranium, Rose, Ylang Ylang
As the top notes fade, the heart reveals a lush floral bouquet. Geranium lends a slightly spicy, green quality, complemented by the romantic sweetness of rose. The exotic, creamy richness of ylang-ylang adds an opulent touch, creating a well-rounded and deeply alluring core.

Base Notes

Cedarwood, Musk, Oakmoss, Sandalwood, Vetiver
Finally, the fragrance settles into its base, where the warmth of sandalwood and the earthy tones of vetiver provide a grounding effect. Cedarwood adds a clean, woody sharpness, while oakmoss imparts a mossy depth. The subtle musk ties everything together, leaving a refined and lasting impression.

Each fragrance belongs to a fragrance family, which helps categorize its dominant olfactory profile. No. 89 is a citrus woody fragrance, combining the freshness of citrus with the warm, grounding elements of wood. This harmonious pairing creates a timeless and versatile scent, suitable for any occasion.

Understanding the role of top, heart, and base notes enhances your appreciation of fine fragrance. When you wear No. 89, you’re not just experiencing a scent—you’re embarking on a journey through its layers. The initial freshness evolves into a rich floral heart, finally settling into a sophisticated woody base that lasts throughout the day.

When you look at fragrances on the Floris website, you will see that we have listed the top, heart and base notes for each one. This tells you the layers of each fragrance and how it has been designed to evolve over time as you wear it.

By checking the top, heart and base notes, you can understand what a fragrance will smell like when it’s freshly spritzed onto your skin, and then throughout the day or evening.

Think about the scents you like to wear, e.g. lavender, musk, bergamot or patchouli. Focus on fragrances that include those notes. 

The best way to test a fragrance is always on the skin. Because each formula has been designed to work on the human body, you simply won’t get the same effect by spraying a fragrance onto a test strip.

We always recommend that people spray a sample onto their skin, then leave it for an hour or more. You need to experience how the fragrance evolves as the layers of notes come through.

You can buy a 2ml sample of any Floris fragrance on our website to test at home.

Alternatively, you can visit our shops at 89 Jermyn Street, London, to explore our collection and get advice from our expert team.